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Leaving Tofino.
i know its a bit odd to be writing about the trip while we are already back, but i know a lot of you are following us, so i need to fill in all the spaces. We left Tofino on August 31, and headed for Barkley sound, Effingham bay, there was no wind, so, no sailing, swell of 2 metres, and lots of red tide. Bert tried to catch another salmon, but they were not biting that morning. Effingham Bay and Effingham island are beautiful, the ocean is very close by, just around the corner but the swell doesnt come into the bay. We headed out in the dinghy the next morning to tour around the island, and what an incredible thing to do, i was not prepared for the beauty we saw there, the raw wildness, unspoiled as yet. The swells ,beating the shore line for years and years , have created art works of immense beauty, rock formations , caves, bridges, huge mounts of boulders, all either polished smooth or , in the case of volcanic rock, rough, black, covered with creatures and kelp. Bert brought his camera, i was so grateful for that, i miss mine so much, but i think the photos came out very well. We circumnavigated the island, slowly, at every turn there was another artwork, the swell was gentle, here and there are small beaches, yes, full of plastic stuff, the thing is to NOT get used to that, but to keep on trying to clean up if possible and to teach other people. At one little spot we went ashore, the beach was all sand, driftwood and small rocks, we could see another beach through the woods, and walked there, easily , as the ground was free of plants, covered with many needles and cones, it was like walking on a super luxurious carpet!!! The giant Sitkas have ferns growing on the branches, up high, they look like the ones you buy here in the fall, tropical ones, amazing to see them growing up high, i have to still find the name for them……..
The rest of the trip…..
Its been a long time , seems months ago since we were cruising. We are now in Sidney, anchored out in Tsehum harbour, Bert is working for his brother for a few days, i am cleaning the boat, organizing, and trying to get back to kind of normal….. But first, i need to still tell about the rest of the trip, the photos i took with Bert’s little Nikon camera, it did well, but oh, do i ever miss my Canon!!! We met Mary In Tofino,she owns a power boat , MV Sol Duc, a very capable lady , handling her boat by herself, we also met with a great couple, just married, they were on their honeymoon, in their sailboat “Red Thread”, a Catalina Morgan, beautiful boat. We kept seeing each other in the anchorages after Tofino, i sure didnt mind leaving there, very wet, dirty docks, people were falling all around us slipping on the slime. Tofino is so busy, still in the middle of tourist season, its a culture shock after the quiet and peace on the coast. We had anchored out first, no one else seems to do that there, we were told there is bad holding, too many crab traps, which is true, the crab trap part, but we had no problem, plus the marina was chock full. Then, two nights later, early morning, a storm started up, prediction of 35 knots and more, Bert was watching the marina and saw a powerboat leaving, on the outside, easy spot for us, so we hauled the anchor and raced over there, as much as Curtsy can race, its a first come first serve marina, so we really lucked out, it then blew and poured for three days, so we made the right decision.
peeking into the forest .
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love this shot, like to put it on the blog again….
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thoughts…..
A little more about these small bays and coves….Everywhere i look into the forest , i see giant trunks of silver cedar, sitka spruce and fir, moss grows on their huge branches ,small ferns rooted in it, Kingfishers are everywhere, every bay, cove and inlet have a pair of these birds in them, they are so busy, while they fly , they chatter, all the time, they sound like rattles,announcing themselves as if to say, we are coming, out of the way!!!!!! Six merganzers play in Bacchante Bay, a pair with four offspring, they swim in 2 feet of water, but it looks like they are fish, which we thought they were at first. There are tons of little fish here, lots to eat for these little guys. Watta Creek is beautiful, the water flows clear and fast, further up are some rapids, creating oxygen for the fish, we dont see any large fish but quite a few little ones. A pair of eagles are hanging out, watching for an opportunity, they are always interacting, talking with each other. We have seen eagles nests in every bay too, the young have left a long time ago, some still hang around the same bay, but others look for a new spot. They have to learn to hunt, the parents do not teach them, but they do watch and learn that way.
August 22, happy birthday Charlie!!!!
We took off from Hot Springs Cove on the 22nd, and headed to Bottleneck cove, in Holmes inlet. The sun was out, nice breeze, sails out, and i just kept grabbing for my camera that wasnt there……So, now i use Bert’s for a while!! We saw a black bear on the shore in Bottleneck Cove, he was turning rocks on the shore, it was a day past full moon , so the tides were still quite high and low. The bears know when to head to the beach, and search for crabs and other yummies!!! The hanging gardens here are wonderful, rock cliffs above the water, colored with lichen , moss, dwarf huckleberry bushes, salal and ferns, i dont think a gardener could do it any better. We did a tour all along the shore, saw a small mink with a catch of fish, chickadees above our heads, a liitle deermouse scurried away as fast as it could, sun peeking through the trees, the large branches covered in thick moss, yellow,brown and a deep green.
After this wonderful place, we went to Bacchante bay,way up at Shelter inlet, Watta creek comes out at the head of the bay, and at low tide it shoes large grass lands,great for bears and other critters. We didnt see any bears, but did see the signs that they had been there. No one else was here, just a wonderful quiet spot to ourselves.
On August 23rd, we headed to Ahousat , at the head of Matilda inlet. This was just a stop over, the weather again was wet and cold. The 24th we headed to Tofino. Bought fuel there, and then decided to anchor there. Basically no one anchors in Tofino, but we really trust our anchor, Bert puts lots of chain out, plus a kessel to keep the chain down, we had no problem. After 2 nights a storm was coming, SE , a pretty strong one, Bert noticed that a boat had left on the outside, an easy spot for us to dock to, so we “raced” over and grabbed it, its a first come first serve harbour. So, here we are, and its still storming, so we wait, so do some other boats. Saturday is suppose to be good, no more rain, NW , (hopefully), so we will head into Barkley Sound. Then, more south, as long as the weather stays good…………
A very sad story…..
The second day at Hot Springs Cove, sun was out, brisk wind blowing, Bert went fishing with the dinghy, i went kayaking just around the bay. It is wide open to the ocean, so some swell does come in. I had seen little beaches, with what looked like small rocks, and lots of bleached , blond driftwood. So, off i went. I decided to go as far as the first liitle bay as i had a very hard time handling the kayak, the wind had come up some more and was now gusting hard. I landed in soft sand, climbed out, camera around my neck and started exploring. What i found was nothing but plastic, lots of it, oil bottles, water bottles, a shoe, bags, what a mess. Every beach is like that, but i try and clean up the best i can. I loaded all the plastic i could find in the dingy, tucked it in behind the seat. Then i checked on the rocks, and the beach, what a marvelous little place. I could see Bert in the dinghy, so he knew where i was. I stayed an hour, taking photos, just breathing in the air, then headed back to the kayak. i loaded everything in, put on my PFD, and pushed the kayak to the water. I was standing in no more then 2 feet of water, carefully climbed in, one leg………a large wave came, didnt see it, lost my balance, kayak tipped over, camera in the water…….all the plastic in the water,binoculars, PFD inflated, (well, at least that works), and there i stood, and it hit me hard, camera is done!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just screamed and cried (no one around), and let it out, this huge disappointment. Bert came over at Mac 10, he knew this was not good, he cleaned me up, salvaged all the plastic, i put the camera in my jacket, and he towed the kayak home,he then dried me up, i washed all the salt off, washed the clothes, opened up the camera, and took out the battery,it still seemed ok, charged it, yes it was ok, the card i dont know, it has quite a few photos on it, so , once i get a chance to buy another camera, i will find out. The new GOLDEN rule is, NO MORE CAMERA IN KAYAK!!!!! I will be buying a waterproof case, but even then, when i use the camera it is still very venerable!! I still cant believe i did this, but stopped beating myself up over it.
Zeballos to Tahsis,Bodega Cove to Friendly Cove
Zeballos is surrounded by high mountains, i think thats why the colour of the water is so beautiful. Its a quiet town, lots of fishermen, we were so lucky when we arrived, its a first come first serve marina, so just before we arrived near noon, a boat had left and we grabbed that spot, an easy one too for us to get in and out. Lisa called on 16, and wondered if there was room for them, so Bert , together with some fishermen reorganized the docks a bit, and made room. Our dock was full of , i think, Vietnamese fishermen, very friendly lads, not speaking any english, but always helpfull. We walked through town, trying to find stores, we found one, with basically two potatoes, canned goods, and cold drinks. Later on , Bert went searching and found two more stores, they are in houses, so you just dont know that they actually sell stuff, he came home with lettuce, cucumbers, and onions. The cukes were wrapped in plastic and stone cold, and very soon thereafter , even when the plastic was gone, were rotting, no good if they are in plastic and in a fridge. Learned about that one!! If you are cruising, and you find a decent piece of cheese, dont buy just one, buy 3 or more. Try and find all the fresh vegies you can, you go through them very fast. We left for Tahsis on the 16th, it was still wet and cold, hoped to do some laundry there. Basically , Tahsis is all about fishing too this time of year, they did find a spot on the dock for us, and we just stayed one night. On the 17th we headed to Bodega Cove, at the head of Kendrick inlet.
I have left my kayak inflated on deck so i could use it more often, its not in the way, and so much fun to go out in. Bodega cove was marvelous to kayak, i left after dinner, and went through the whole inlet, seeing eagles,kingfishers and herons. Bert came rowing with the dinghy later on, we didnt see any bears but saw lots of signs.
Friendly Cove is at the entrance of Nootka Sound, a wild place, the swell comes in continually, which makes it uncomfortable, the coast guard was anchored next to us but they left again later on. The lighthouse is still manned as far as i know, and its somehow comforting to watch the light going around at night. Monday , August 19th the sun came out, it had been so dark and wet, 90 % humidity, every thing feels sticky, we had the stove on every day, to dry things out. I felt nervous about leaving somehow, which we did the next day, very early, too early, Bert wanted to go, didnt eat breakfast, neither did i, so i got sick . The swell was bad, we rocked and rolled, just no fun. i tried then to make breakfast down below, but just couldnt, could not stay down there. We ended up going to Hot Springs Cove, and anchoring in front. Its immensly busy, planes come and go all day long, tourist boats from Tofino bring as many as 20 people, all heading for the springs. So, the thing is, dont go during the day, but wait till evening which is what we did. A very well made boardwalk runs all the way to the Hot Springs, it winds through beautiful old growth forest, and all the wooden boards of the walk have the names of boats on them,carved very nicely, from boats visiting as far back as 2003. We loved the springs, they are very small, 3 pools, the first one is very hot, the small waterfall above this pool is too hot (for me), to stand under, the lower pools are wonderful. Everything is clean, we did not see any garbage!!
The little church at Queens cove.
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