THE QUIET ONLY BROKEN BY WHALE BREATHS!! THAT HEAVENLY SCENT STILL IN THE AIR, BLACK COTTONWOODS, THE TREES LINE THE SHORES, I WANTED TO OVERFILL MY LUNGS ,CAPTURE FOREVER, THIS LOVELY SCENT!! THE WHALES ARE EVERYWHERE ,THREE OF THEM ,ONE VERY BIG FELLOW, WHO COMES INTO THE BAY ALONGSIDE OUR BOAT ,SO CLOSE, I COULD HAVE TOUCHED HIM… HE VEERS OFF TOWARDS THE OTHER TWO WHALES , LATER THAT EVENING COMES BACK, ITS ALMOST DARK, AND DISPLAYS HIS BUBBLE FEEDING ART,IT SEEMS LIKE IT IS JUST FOR US. SLEEPING IS A CHALLENGE FOR ME THAT NIGHT, AS WITH EVERY WHALE BREATH I HEAR, I WANT TO GET UP AGAIN, TO SEE WHERE HE IS!!! HE STAYS ALL NIGHT!!!
We couldn’t believe it, no rain!! And for the next 6 days, we had sun, and gorgeous skies, beautiful sunsets, oh how we deserved that!!!! The color of the water seemed otherworldly , a strange opaque green,(from the glacier runoff), together with the blue sky and the snow topped mountains, it made for an incredible view! We took our time, heading to Blue Mouse cove, and arrived there at noon. There were no boats there, so we picked a spot to the left shore, mainly too, because a Alaskan brown bear was feeding there from the tall grasses! he paid no attention to us whatsoever!
Into Glacier Bay park……What a special feeling, it felt like motoring into another world….. Continue reading
We had a permit to enter Glacier bay, it was for June 18, but obviously that didn’t work anymore, we also were still not too sure if we wanted to go on, but we were so close!!! So on the Sunday, i decided to call the head office in Bartlett Cove, a friendly sounding lad answered , his name was Randy, and i told him our story. he asked if we had cancelled the old permit, and i said, no, too much was happening, we didnt think of that at the time. Well, he said, when would you like to come in then?? I carefully said, how about Tuesday?? Sure!! no problem!!! How long would you like to stay? well….. how about 7 days?? Sure!!!! No problem!!! I could not believe it, as we had been told by several folks that the parks people were NOT friendly, and without a permit, they would never let us in!!!! We were ecstatic!! We were going into Glacier bay!!
On July 4th, we headed out of Hoonah harbor, filled the boat with fuel, 81.5 US gallons, and motored across Icy Strait. It was not raining!!! One giant cruise ship was docked in Hoonah harbour, and the road was full of very fancy dressed folks. As we headed out, we were met by a lone Humpback whale, further up, a dozen sea otters hung out, looking at us as if they never had seen a boat! We rounded Point Adolphus towards Point Gustavus. Gustavus is the village that serves Glacier Bay National park. Bartlett Cove lies just South of the Beardslee Islands, it is well protected, the parks headquarters are here, as well as the Tribal hut. We called in on Channel 16, and gave our permit ID and asked permission to come into the bay to tie at the dock. We sure noticed that is was very quiet, only two boats were anchored, one boat tied to the large dock plus the parks boats. We came to realize that because of the bad weather, all the immense rain, very few boaters had come this far. Good for us!!!! I noticed how beautiful clear the water was, lots of sea life against the docks. We did an orientation at the headquarters, all about what to do, what not to do, the main thing was to stay clear of the whales , apparently they were very active with shore feeding, we were told to stay right in the middle of Sitakaday Narrows, as the whales travel back and forth through there. So, when all was done, we went and anchored out and enjoyed the evening. The next morning, at 6 am, we headed from Bartlett cove to Blue Mouse Cove!!!
We visited the carving shed, where one of the carvers, Owen James, was carving on the last totem pole to be put in front of the Tribal building in Bartlett Cove, Glacier bay. The lighting was made by gas light, so the colors are funny, greenish, but the photos still came out well, i could not use the flash inside. We were given cut off pieces of the yellow cedar from the new pole, to take to the boat, i have them right here, and still the wonderful scent fills the cabin.