We all tied to the docks there, so much easier for carrying groceries to the boat, and doing several laundries.  We arrived on May 20, at 14.30 pm, and lucky for us , there were 3 spaces open at the docks, but its still early in the year, most boats would come later….    The old dead tree is still standing in front of the marina, the two eagles are still sitting in it every day , waiting for their treats.    The laundry is still pretty good here, and we took the water taxi to Bella Bella for our groceries.     The town has quite a few changes, it is a First nations town, and the folks built a beautiful Tribal building to house the two canoes, which they use every year to travel along the BC coast.   Bella Bella is also known as Waglisla, and is the home of the Heiltsuk First nation.     More about this later, we stopped there again on the way back….Curtsy and Waterford tied to the dock in Shearwater. Continue reading →

In the evening Bert and i went for a dinghy ride, looking around the lagoon, i had heard a whale blow, right in the anchorage, it seemed to head into a small part of the lagoon, so we slowly headed that way, no sign of him!!      Bert turned the engine off and we just sat there , i didn’t bring my camera and oh was i ever sorry about that , because here, right behind us,about 30 feet away ,he surfaced, a beautiful , short finned pilot whale!!!  he was big, we we were small , sitting in our little dinghy, he was also very black, a huge, long black back, right next to us!!  I recognized him by his color, his very strong blow as he came to the surface, and his dorsal fin.   Their total length can be up to 23 feet, and their average weight up to 2300 kg.  Another name for them is Pothead whale, ( they have a very black rounded head), or Black fish, but they are obviously not a fish!!!! So i do not have a photo of the whale but this is one of the variegated skunk cabbage at Sagar lake. Continue reading →

This was our third time in this anchorage, we wanted to take out boating friends on the walk to Sagar lake, the start of the trail is at the head of the anchorage, a bit hard to find, but so worth while.   The day was sunny, (yes, sunny!!) the water sparkling, the forest full of bird sounds.    The trail is rough, and about 3 miles long, but its oh so worth while to get to the lake, it lies higher up, and the sandy shores are the color of pinky peach.   It had been so cold till now, but the sun shining on our backs made it all worth it.    We had phone connection up at the lake and our boating friends all hauled out their phones to connect and take photos.   Rita took a dive into the not too cold waters, brave lady, the rest of us waded in knee deep.     Some  plants were starting to sprout, the Skunk cabbage was barely out of the ground ,while at home they were already 3 feet tall!!!!!

Don and Janice sharing a peaceful moment at Sagar lake.

Some parts of the trial have boardwalks to protect the muskeg.  Continue reading →

We arrived at Codville Lagoon on May 19th, at 3.15 pm, a 6 hour (sail), motoring!!!   We did not sail much, would you believe it , only twice the sails went up, on this whole journey!!     Either no wind, wind too hard, (45 knots), right on the bow, always, right on the bow.    We gave up after a while.    On the way we stopped at Namu, Namu is a small fishing port, and used to be a cannery town and a First nations community, it was established in 1893, and was thriving in those days, but now is a ghost town, and apparently a threat for the environment, with old batteries and leaking tanks, plus the buildings have asbestos insulation.   People living nearby would like it all to be cleaned up but neither the government, nor the owner are interested.   Namu is located 35 kilometers SE of Bella Bella.   It is located in the great Bear Rain Forest, later on we heard from two boaters that they has seen two Spirit bears there, roaming around between the buildings.    (   Spirit bears are bears that are white,  with light colored skin, (polar bears have black skin), they are a genetic strain off the black bears, and are only seen on two islands ,but I will tell more about them later. )   About Namu,  Eric Peterson , from the Hakai Institute said  that “its like visiting  a person whose health is failing . each time you can see how much more the buildings and docks have collapsed. ”     BC Packers closed Namu cannery in 1970.   Apparently , for the first time in 11.000 years, there is no one living at Namu.  Eric Peterson , whose non profit science foundation  has been doing archeological  work around the site, excavating in the 11.000 year old village site, says it is slowly crumbling and it is escalating.     Cannery building at NamuThe docks are collapsing.SV WATERFORD gliding into Namu harbour .Vaughan and Rita looking at what is left of Namu. Continue reading →

May 18, we left at 10.30, after coffee, tide was good, weather ok, we apparently had flood tide, into Kwakshua Channel.    I was exited, i love Hakai, but also realized, we would not be staying long….maybe on the way back……The gardens were just starting to bloom, many young people work here, scientists, researchers, its a place of learning and discovering, we did go to the West beach for a walk, but were so tired, that we turned back and went to bed early.   Next morning ,at 9 am, we headed out towards Codville lagoon.      I felt there was a lot of tension on the boat, i now believe it was that deadline looming, HAVING to be in Glacier bay at a certain date.     On the way towards Codville Lagoon.Baraka Bashad ,motoring near us.Rita, taking a photo of Curtsy with the phone. Continue reading →

Fury Cove anchorage Continue reading →

So, on may 17th , at 12.30, we entered Fury Cove, found a nice spot, and relaxed.   We only stayed one night, i guess we did have the afternoon that day also, but the sun was out, and its quite a beautiful spot.   The beaches are all broken shell, Middens from long ago, the colors all around are cream and blue, with black large rocks in between.     At least, once Cape Caution was behind us, we could relax a bit…..

The boat is doing great, we made water with the Katadin water maker every day, and kept the tanks full that way.    There were no leaks, no weird noises, (i would be the one to hear them), all was well and is well!!!The ocean beyond…    Bert and Vaughan, resting against an old giant.Rita, cleaning out the broken shells from her shoes!! Continue reading →

West coast shore line.    Gorgeous colors. Continue reading →

This is what i wrote in my journal, i kept it up every day, tried to write what i saw, what i felt.

This marvelous place, Miles Inlet ,with all its secrets, all the different shades of green,an eagle calling, we found its nest, high on top of a dead tree, overlooking the inlet and the ocean beyond, the overfall of water, doing what it has always done ,sounding like a lovely rippling brook, and then becoming quiet as a mill pond, only to run the other way, water coming in, running hard into the lagoon.  Two ospreys ,maybe one parent, one young, calling together with that high pierced osprey call, the parent flying acrobatics , seemingly showing the young one how it s done!!     The racks here are ice scarred from long ago, nature is painting designs on the boulders that are just above the tide, submerged at times, they are modern Continue reading →

Every time again, it feels like a nerve wracking but also exciting event, to go around the Cape.      May 17 was the day, 5 a.m. (WHAT???), in the morning, tide was right, swell would be right, but the thing is, usually after a good blow the day before, you still get the swell the next day, and swell there was!!!     I could not possibly stay down below, leave alone cook something, i made coffee beforehand, and had all kinds of snacks ready, all i could do was look forwards, to the bow, watch the skyline, try to ignore the bucking and swaying of the boat, our boating friends on Baraka Bashad had already left, his boat is fast, and they were always way ahead of us, but the folks on SV WATERFORD stayed behind us, and this way we watched out for each other.   I took some great photos of their boat in the swells, it looks like she was out on the high seas, crossing the ocean!!! We rounded Cape Caution at 10.15 am      The decision was made to go to Fury Cove, we had not been there before, it is a very popular anchorage, room for lots of boats, and good holding.  I just realized that i had some other nice info about Miles Inlet, lets face it, it has been awhile, 6 months back, but i will post this first, then back track a wee bit, and then go on again!!      I kept two journals, a tad confusing, i am at the moment surrounded by books, charts, and all kinds of info.    I should do better once i get going. SV WATERFORD disappearing in the swell.Incredible, how boats can just deal with everything, its us, the crew, that get a bit pale…… Continue reading →